In the early 1700’s, potters in New York began to produce an entirely new ceramic form in response to the needs of local oystermen and merchants selling pickled oysters to ship captains and other gentlemen traveling to the West Indies. These small “oyster jars” were a packaging innovation, uniquely tied to the sea, that would forever change trade across the Atlantic World. This site explores these little-known and historically important ceramic vessels.
Shipboard Fare
Food at sea during the age of sail was nothing short of abysmal. Things like salted pork and beef, dried peas and hardtack were the norm in the galley of both British Naval and colonial merchant vessels. Not surprisingly, those with the means to purchase more appetizing (and expensive) foods, prior to their journey, often did so to make their time at sea more tolerable.
Pickled oysters were one of the most popular of such foods on offer from the merchants, grocers and inns lining Manhattan’s busy colonial waterfront. Ship captains and other “gentlemen” heading to sea, purchased single-serving-sized jars of pickled oysters in small groups or in boxes of twelve depending on their preference and the length of the journey.
I believe that their intention was primarily to consume the oysters alone or with shipmates of similar social class during the voyage, but there is also evidence that such jars were purchased with the intention of making a profit through private trades at the port of call or as a gift to merchants and planters in the West Indies to further strengthen social and mercantile bonds.
Given the lack of good food on at sea, the captain’s private stores, including potted oysters and fine wine, were often the first things confiscated by marauding pirates and privateers. While gold, silver and exotic goods were the aim, these spoils did little to fill the stomachs or quench the thirst of pirate crews roaming the Caribbean and numerous accounts recall the privateers taking all the food and drink they could take from their prize. For this reason, even pirates would have been familiar with pickled oysters.
What makes an Oyster Jar?
There are unique and consistent characteristics that distinguish oyster jars from other more common and later vessels used to store foods. Indeed, oyster jars do share a passing resemblance to the common wax-sealers of the late 19th century, but can be distinguished from this type in that oyster jars have unusually small openings for their size (see examples of wax-sealers here). Another distinction relates to the time period (~1730-1850) within which the oyster jars were produced, which means that all oyster jars were thrown on a wheel, and show the irregularities of individual craftsmen, unlike most wax sealers which were molded in some way. A final distinction relates to the differences between glazes, with the wax sealers coming in a wide variety of different colors compared to the oyster jars which are typically salt glazed or Albany slip glazed at most.
Pickled Oysters
Pickling is a practice best suited to foods that are highly perishable and seasonal. During colonial times in America, oysters were both. While a live oyster in the shell can survive out of water for days, weeks and even months if handled properly, a shucked oysters spoils quickly. With regard to seasonality, there is nothing unsafe about eating our oyster (Crassotrea virginica) during any month of the year yet the Common Council in early New York prohibited harvesting, selling or purchasing live oysters during the summer months (May-August) based on a misunderstanding that the our oyster was the same species as the European flat oyster (Ostrea edulis), which is inedible during summer due to how they reproduce. This meant that anyone who wanted to eat one of the most popular foods during that time would have to purchase ones that had been previously pickled or otherwise preserved. Recipes for pickling oysters don’t vary much from other types of pickles and date to at least the early 17th century in Europe. All recipes call for first boiling the shucked oysters followed by combining them with vinegar, some of their liquor, pepper, allspice, cloves and occasionally hot pepper.
Origins of the Oyster Jar
Although almost certainly a uniquely American invention based on the specific conditions within colonial New York, the origins or inspiration for the oyster jar can clearly be traced to the 17th century British Navy and the Thames River waterfront of late 16th and early 17th century London. Here men associated with the government, trade and naval operations shared pickled oysters in small wooden kegs. Examples of this practice can be found in the mid-17th century writings of Samuel Pepys, a British Naval Administrator, who was gifted small “barrels” of pickled oysters by captains seeking to win his favor. After the capture of Manhattan Island by the British in 1664, the tradition of packing pickled oysters into small wooden casks was brought to our shores and continued for several decades. However, at some point after 1720, when German stoneware potters arrived in New York, the small wooden keg was usurped by a easier to produce, cheaper and more hygienic stoneware version.
The Evolution of Jar Types
While I believe that the first oysters jars were produced in Colonial America on the island of Manhattan, some modified version of that original form would go on to be adopted in several other important oyster centers on the East Coast. Although it is difficult to precisely date the emergence of jars at each port and to track the changes in style with and between ports, there are clues to this, based on written records and physical characteristics (signed examples, glazes, size, etc.). In the following section, I have attempted to order extant jars within a continuum of production dating from the early 18th century well into the 19th century. For obvious reasons, I do not cover the metal oyster cans that started to be used in the industry sometime in the 1850’s and I have chosen not to cover the, wide-mouthed and handled, oyster jars that came to be used in New England in the late 19th and early 20th century.
Research and Education
Coming from a background in science and education, I believe it is important to try to contribute to the understanding of whatever I collect. In the case of the oyster jars, I have tried to accomplish this by combing original source materials for relevant information, analyzing surviving jars using scientific methods, and consulting with those with expertise outside of my own including: archaeologist, sediment scientists, historians, and potters. Following this, I then made every attempt to share my findings with whoever in interested. The latter has included by oral presentations and articles on the subject. Another part of spreading the word and sharing has involved loaning my jars to public institutions that wish to have organized exhibits relating to the subject.
Where Have Jars Been Found?
Understanding where and how oyster jars are found sheds light on the history of these vessels. The fact that they were produced for export means that we would expect few to be recovered in their original use context within United States and this is mostly true for the early examples. Given that they were packed on ships leaving New York and other East Coast ports, most jars never returned to these shores, and are likely resting on the bottom of the Atlantic or within a sheltered harbor within the West Indies. Some number did indeed make it onshore at their final destination and it is from this group that we find the largest number of survivors.
